<?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1" ?><!-- RSS generation done by ForumCo.com on 11/22/2009  02:49:19 --><rss version="0.92"><channel><title>NDGGA</title><link>http://ndgga.forumco.com/</link><description>NDGGA</description><author></author><image2>http://ndgga.forumco.com/rss.gif</image2><image><link>http://www.ndgga.org</link><url>http://ndgga.forumco.com/rss.gif</url><title>NDGGA RSS Feed</title><width>86</width><height>37</height></image><item><title>Mulch &amp; spring dieback (08-24-2009 21:59:09)</title><author>mwagar</author><link>http://ndgga.forumco.com/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=16&amp;REPLY_ID=38</link><ttl>10</ttl><pubDate>Mon, 24 Aug 2009 21:59:09 +0100</pubDate><description><![CDATA[ There are 1 replies, with the last one on 08/24/2009 at 21:59:09 by mwagar]]></description></item><item><title>Table and/or Seedless Grapes (07-19-2009 17:25:44)</title><author>Grape Wild</author><link>http://ndgga.forumco.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22</link><ttl>10</ttl><pubDate>Sun, 19 Jul 2009 17:25:44 +0100</pubDate><description><![CDATA[ Does anyone know what table or seedless grape varieties there are that would survive a ND winter? I've heard some about somerset seedless and it seems to be surviving, but can anyone give me some more information on what seedless and table grape varieties can make it.]]></description></item><item><title>grape juice recipe (05-10-2009 21:28:36)</title><author>Grape Wild</author><link>http://ndgga.forumco.com/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=18&amp;REPLY_ID=37</link><ttl>10</ttl><pubDate>Sun, 10 May 2009 21:28:36 +0100</pubDate><description><![CDATA[ There are 3 replies, with the last one on 05/10/2009 at 21:28:36 by Grape Wild]]></description></item><item><title>how to get started growing grapes (02-26-2009 16:38:26)</title><author>gkrieger</author><link>http://ndgga.forumco.com/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=21&amp;REPLY_ID=35</link><ttl>10</ttl><pubDate>Thu, 26 Feb 2009 16:38:26 +0100</pubDate><description><![CDATA[ There are 5 replies, with the last one on 02/26/2009 at 16:38:26 by gkrieger]]></description></item><item><title>NDGGA  Logo Clothing (12-16-2008 06:44:46)</title><author>rehogen</author><link>http://ndgga.forumco.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20</link><ttl>10</ttl><pubDate>Tue, 16 Dec 2008 06:44:46 +0100</pubDate><description><![CDATA[ Just for general information.   Susan and I will bring some clothing to the Annual Meeting in Feb. with the NDGGA logo on them.   Rudy, Jeff and I had some shirts made for us for the Ag Show at the FargoDome in Dec.     If anyone is interested email me at <a href="mailto:rehogen@yahoo.com">rehogen@yahoo.com</a>     or just wait till the Annual Meeting.<br />Thanks<br />Rodney]]></description></item><item><title>Poor Hardining (12-16-2008 06:40:14)</title><author>rehogen</author><link>http://ndgga.forumco.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=19</link><ttl>10</ttl><pubDate>Tue, 16 Dec 2008 06:40:14 +0100</pubDate><description><![CDATA[ I notice on my vines this early winter that they didn't harden off very good.    Lots of die back.    What could be the cause?   Was it the late rains?]]></description></item><item><title>ListServ from NDSU (09-16-2008 23:00:09)</title><author>gkrieger</author><link>http://ndgga.forumco.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=17</link><ttl>10</ttl><pubDate>Tue, 16 Sep 2008 23:00:09 +0100</pubDate><description><![CDATA[ List Servers are a fantastic way to share information with or request information from a specific group.  Anything sent to the listserv shows up as an e-mail in every member's inbox.  <br />Harlene has set one up one for grape growers and a number of us are on it.  Those of you who are not on it yet are all invited to join.  Topics this year have included winter survival last spring, tissue sample results this summer, and Brix levels this fall.  It is easy to join - just send an e-mail to Harlene at the address below with a message saying you would like to be added to the grape list serve.<br /><br />Greg @ LSV<br /><br />----- Original Message ----- <br />From: "Harlene Hatterman-Valenti" &lt;<a href="mailto:h.hatterman.valenti@ndsu.edu">h.hatterman.valenti@ndsu.edu</a>&gt;<br /><br />I've been designated the administrator and thus the one to add the names and e-mail addresses.  I think it would be great to have hundreds of people subscribed, so if members send me their information, I will make the additions.]]></description></item><item><title>Fertilizing grapes (09-13-2008 22:05:00)</title><author>gkrieger</author><link>http://ndgga.forumco.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=15</link><ttl>10</ttl><pubDate>Sat, 13 Sep 2008 22:05:00 +0100</pubDate><description><![CDATA[ Here is the response I got from Mike White regarding our tissue test results.  His answers are sandwiched in between my questions.<br />GK @ LSV<br /><br />----------------------------------------------------------<br />Mike White<br />ISU Extension Viticulture Specialist.<br />ph: 515-961-6237, fax 6017<br /><a href="mailto:mlwhite@iastate.edu">mlwhite@iastate.edu</a><br />---------------------------------------------------------------------<br />From: Greg Krieger [mailto:krieger@polarcomm.com] <br />Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 1:08 PM<br />To: Michael L White<br />Subject: Tissue Sample Results<br /><br /><br />Mike,<br /><br />After seeing some vineyards with poor vine growth and after being inspired by a talk at the Cold Climate Conference, I got approval from the North Dakota Grape Growers Association to cover the cost of a tissue analysis for any member who would submit one.  <br /><br />So far, we've had 26 samples analysed, and the results are rather interesting.  On average, the each sample is low on nearly four different nutrients.  The most commonly deficient nutrients and the numbers of low samples are: iron - 19, sulfur - 16, calcium -12, nitrogen - 12, manganese - 10, zinc - 9, magnesium - 8, and copper - 6.  The phosphorous levels are adequate on all but four samples; the potassium levels are high on all but one sample, and boron is adequate on every sample.  <br /><br />MW:        The value of tissue samples come from comparisons seen over several years and when compared against a soil test.  Seasonal weather, current crop growth and crop load can have a big affect on the results.  Low sulfur and nitrogen are typical with dry soils, low organic matter soils and with heavy crop loads.   pH’s above 6.7 quickly limit the uptake of Fe, Cu, Zn, Mn and Boron<br /><br />           Low potassium levels are common late in the season under heavy crop loads or dry soil conditions.<br /><br />These samples came from across the state, representing several different soils and pH levels.  The low nitrogen tests are highly correlated with whethor or not  the vineyards have grass between the rows.  No suprise there.  I've heard that potassium, calcium and magnesium compete for uptake, so the high potassium levels could explain the low Ca and Mg results.  That still leaves a lot of samples with low Fe, S, Mn,  Zn and/or Cu.  <br /><br />MW:         Yes, horticulturalists always talk about K, CA and Mg competing with each other.  Agronomists generally disagree with this concept unless low Cation Exchange Capacity- CEC soils (ie…sandy or light textured soils) are present. <br /><br />           For the sake of getting along, I will agree with the horticulturalists on this.<br /><br />Few, if any, of these grapes were inoculated with mycorrhizae.  Could that be the reason there are so many low results?  Most vineyards in ND are growing on what was once grassland or farmland without a history of woody plants, so lack of mycorrhizae would be expected.  But then, aren't mycorrhizae mainly to help with P uptake?  For the most part, our P levels are fine.  <br /><br />MW:        Yes, inoculating with mycorrhizae could enhance establishment of a vineyard, especially if you are buying greenhouse plants that have not been grown in vineyard nursery soils. There is already mycorrhizae on the roots when you purchase bare root plants.  Mycorrhizae helps with obtaining all nutrients in the soil.  It just so happens that phosphate is often in limited in supply in many of our Midwestern soils.  <br /><br />High soil pH could explain low Fe and Zn tests, for example, but I'd expect those same sites to also have low P and high S, but that isn't the case. <br /><br />MW:        Yes, pH’s above 6.7 would tend to tie up FE, Zn, B, Mn and Cu and limit P uptake. <br /><br /><br />What is going on here?  How do these results compare with tissue results in Iowa, for example?  Is inoculation with mycorrhizae a standard practice there?   <br /><br />MW:       No, I do not know of anyone specifically inoculating grapes with microrrhizae.<br /><br />I've read that fertilizer and pesticide applications are harmful to mycorrhizae.  Is this true?  I can't imagine that all products are all in the same heirarchy of toxicity.  It is unlikely that many of these grapes would have been treated with a fungicide, and none would have been trated with a soil fumigant.  <br /><br />MW:      Anything that would enhance plant growth should enhance mycorrihizae growth (symbiotic relationship between grape and fungus).  Fertilizer should increase mycorrhizae’s growth.  I am not aware of any insecticides, herbicides or foliar fungicides that would hurt micorrhizae growth in the soil.  Yes,… a soil fumigant would like cause harm. <br /><br />Do you have any idea what would be the best practices to use to nurture mycorrhizae?  Worst?   Is it beneficial to apply mycorrhizae to established plants?  If so, how should it be done?<br /><br />MW:    Generally good soil texture, moisture, organic matter, little compaction, moisture and pH’s in the 5.5-7.0 range will favor micorrhizae.  Most micorrhizae is host specific. What is good for the host is good for the micorrhizae.<br /><br />Yes, the addition of  mycorrhizae may enhance grape growth if it is not already present. <br /><br />Any other thoughts?<br /><br />MW:     Summary… People often tend to concentrate on the lower priority soil properties when drying to increase crop growth, often ignoring the high priority items.   Here is my priority order for plant growth<br /><br />   Temperature&gt;Sunshine &gt; CO2 &gt;O2&gt;water&gt;soil tilth&gt;pH&gt;N&gt;P&gt;K&gt;S&gt;Ca&gt;Mg&gt;micronutrients,………………….micorrhizae.  Pay attention to the most important and the details will often solve themselves. <br /><br />            One tissue sample will not tell you the whole story.  <br /><br /> I hope this is of some help.<br /> <br />Jmike white<br /><br />____________________________________<br /><br />Thanks.<br /><br /><br />Greg Krieger, Pres.<br /><br />NDGGA<br />]]></description></item><item><title>Need some pruning help on my wild grape vine. (06-10-2008 14:59:23)</title><author>Grape Wild</author><link>http://ndgga.forumco.com/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11&amp;REPLY_ID=29</link><ttl>10</ttl><pubDate>Tue, 10 Jun 2008 14:59:23 +0100</pubDate><description><![CDATA[ There are 4 replies, with the last one on 06/10/2008 at 14:59:23 by Grape Wild]]></description></item><item><title>Marquette (01-30-2008 11:44:13)</title><author>gkrieger</author><link>http://ndgga.forumco.com/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=13&amp;REPLY_ID=26</link><ttl>10</ttl><pubDate>Wed, 30 Jan 2008 11:44:13 +0100</pubDate><description><![CDATA[ There are 1 replies, with the last one on 01/30/2008 at 11:44:13 by gkrieger]]></description></item></channel></rss>